The Ultimate Guide to Bernex Ski Resort in France

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Bernex is a small village located in the Haute-Savoie region of France. Bernex is known for its ski resort with incredible views of the impressive Dent D’Oche Mountain. Many people travel from around the region to enjoy snow sports in the winter in Bernex. 

Bernex Ski Resort is less well-known compared to other resorts in the French Alps, due to its small size. It is beneficial for visitors that want to enjoy the peaceful nature of Bernex. For those looking for small ski resorts in France, Bernex is an excellent place to start.

During the school holidays, Bernex turns into a quaint but lively skiing village – perfect for families. The village is full of culture and regional traditions adding to its cosy atmosphere. 

I have been visiting Bernex for over 17 years, and on occasion, I visit the town several times in a year. Therefore, I am an expert in this region of France and have plenty of experience being in Bernex throughout the ski season.

In this article you will learn about where to rent winter sport equipment, how to check the weather conditions, when to go skiing in Bernex, and more.

Bernex ski resort in winter France - snowy mountains with restaurant in view
Bernex

Where is Bernex Ski Resort?

Geneva town - trees, lake and buildings
Geneva

Firstly, an important clarification to make is that Bernex Ski Resort is situated in France. There is also a town called Bernex in Switzerland, an hour away, so they are not to be confused with each other. 

You can get to Bernex Ski Resort by flying to Geneva and driving a further 1 hour 20 minutes.

You will need to rent a car from the Swiss side of Geneva airport to make sure it includes winter tyres and snow chains. Plus, if you rent a car in Switzerland, you will be provided with a vignette, which means you can drive on the motorway in Switzerland.

If you rent a car from the French side of Geneva airport (or from an airport in France), it may not include the winter tyres, plus – you will need to purchase a vignette for CHF 40 if you intend to travel more in Switzerland. (Note: you do not need a vignette to drive from Geneva airport to Bernex).

You can also consider flying to these airports to reach Bernex:

  • Lyon Airport (2 hours 20-minute drive)
  • Zurich (nearly 3-hour drive)
  • Milan Malpensa Airport (4-hour drive)
  • Paris Charles de Gaulle (6 ½ hour drive)
Eurotunnel crossing in France - Customs line

Another option is to drive from another destination in Europe to Bernex. The drive from Calais (the French side of the Eurotunnel) is around 9 ½ hours or just over 10 ½ hours from Amsterdam

If you plan to drive your car from the UK, you should compare prices for ferries and the Eurotunnel with Direct Ferries.

There are plenty of places to stop at on your way to Bernex around France.

For example, you could make the potentially long drive enjoyable by stopping off in Paris and experiencing Disneyland. Additionally, you could visit Annecy, a spectacular lakeside town.  Or if you arrive at Bernex from the east side of Lake Geneva, you will pass another stunning town on the lake, Montreux.

Information about Bernex Ski Resort

Samantha at top of Bernex Ski Resort

Bernex is a relatively small ski resort. In total, there are 22 runs at the ski resort Bernex, including:

  • 4 Black
  • 9 Red
  • 5 Blue
  • 3 Green

There is also a beginner’s skiing area. There are 12 ski lifts, of which three are chairlifts and nine are drag lifts. View the Bernex ski map here.

The ski area offers 100 km of slopes. The highest point of Bernex Ski Resort is 1,912 metres. You can take the chairlift to Pointe De Pelluaz, where you will find a fantastic view of Mont Blanc. 

The views from allover the resort are spectacular, there are some excellent runs to practice your skills, plus the ski resort has a welcoming community feel. Therefore, I feel it is one of the best small French ski resorts.

Standing at the top of ski run after fresh snow in Bernex France

The cost for Bernex ski passes is affordable, especially compared to much larger ski resorts worldwide. For up-to-date prices for lift passes, visit the Bernex Tourist Office website

As of the 2023/2024 season, a Bernex lift pass costs €29 for 1 day (adult) or €26.50 for 4 hours (adult).

You can purchase a lift ticket for just Bernex. Or, you can purchase a lift pass that includes skiing at Bernex Ski Resort, Thollon Les Mémises Ski Resort, and the Abondance Ski Resort. These two other ski resorts are approximately 15 minutes away from Bernex and linked by a shuttle bus. 

You can take the shuttle from the other resorts on Thursdays (outside of school holidays) and every Wednesday and Thursday during school holidays. Learn more about the free Bernex shuttle in this leaflet (in French).

Where to Find Ski Hire Bernex?

Skier in front of Bernex Dent D'Oche mountain
Shops at bottom of Bernex Ski Resort

There are several locations to rent skis and snowboards in Bernex. All three rental shops are conveniently found at the bottom of the ski slopes.

You should reserve your equipment in advance to guarantee availability. Plus, most rental shops will give you a discount for booking online in advance.

To reserve your ski equipment online: visit the Bernex Tourism website, scroll down to select the tab named Ski Equipment and scroll to find the rental shops and their websites.

Over the years, I have rented from Michoud Sports (Skimium) and Super Bernex Sports 2000. I would recommend these two shops because I have personally used them. 

Make sure you know your height in cm, weight in KG and shoe size in European sizes in French. You will also need to say whether you are a beginner (débutant), average (moyen/intermédiaire), or a good skier (très bon skier/expert).  

I recommend checking this article on how to layer clothing for skiing for more information on what to pack.

How to Check the Bernex Weather

Snowy conditions in Bernex ski resort on drag lift

To see the weather forecast in Bernex, visit this website that will show you the weather at different heights throughout Bernex. Plus, it will show you what ski lifts and runs are open in Bernex Ski Resort.

You can check also check this detailed Bernex snow report. The website will show you the snow forecast for the next 6 days. 

You can also find a live stream of the Bernex ski resort to see what the snow conditions look like on the slopes.

When to Go Skiing in Bernex?

Your answer to when to visit Bernex in winter is dependent on two choices. Whether you want to ski in certain weather conditions or how busy you prefer the ski resort and village to be. 

Weather Conditions

Bernex Ski resort after snowfall - chairlift and village

Although it is difficult to predict the weather, generallythe better snow conditions in Bernex are from late January to early March. For sunnier conditions, it is better to visit Bernex in March. 

Bernex’s ski season length is dependent on snowfall. Usually, the ski resort opens in mid to late December and closes in mid to late March. 

Christmas is a festive time to be in Bernex. However, the snow can be a little sparse this early in the season, although you can get lucky with a large amount of snowfall in December.

If the snow at Bernex Ski Resort is a little thin, you could visit another nearby ski resort. There are many options for other ski resorts in the area, such as the whole of the Portes du Soleil Resort or at Thollon or Abondance.

Peak and Off-Peak Times

Bernex Ski Resort in January - not busy
Bernex in January

For those looking to ski Bernex during a quieter time of year, check the French school holiday times.

French schools have five weeks of half term holidays throughout February and March. Each zone in France is allocated a different set of weeks to take their holidays. You can find information about the French school holidays here.

One benefit of visiting Bernex ski resort during the French half terms is that restaurants and bars in the area are open more flexibly. Outside of the school holidays, some restaurants do not open every day and have shorter opening hours throughout the day.

Some people prefer to visit Bernex when the town is lively. This preference is because there is more to do in the area during the peak holidays. 

In addition, there are several events in Bernex during the holidays. The Descente aux Flambeaux (torchlight decent) takes place every Thursday during the Christmas and February/March holidays.

Bernex winter activities - man playing trumpet and free wine

The Descente aux Flambeaux involves the French ski instructors (ESF Bernex) skiing down a slope holding a torch or flame, creating a lit-up chain of skiers in the dark. 

There are sometimes other interactive races for children to get involved in.

Plus, the Bernex tourism office serves complimentary mulled wine (vin chaud) or hot chocolate (chocolat chaud) after the Descente aux Flambeaux. 

On the other hand, you may prefer to visit when the resort is quieter, which is outside of the school holidays. You will be able to enjoy Bernex Ski Resort with minimal people and short lift queues. 

Is Bernex Ski Resort Good for Beginners?

Ski lesson hut Bernex ESF - blue sky

Bernex is an excellent place to learn to ski for children and adults. There are several green and blue runs for skiers or snowboarders to learn on, and then there are more advanced runs to build up to. 

I highly recommend booking skiing or snowboarding lessons with ESF Bernex. Many of the instructors speak English and can help improve your skiing immensely. I have taken numerous lessons over the years.

The ski area is relatively small, which means that people of all ages can have some independence and explore. The small resort also means you can get to know the slopes, which is a plus for many people, particularly beginners or more nervous skiers. 

Consequently, I think Bernex is one of the best French ski resorts for beginners.

Even so, there are numerous more difficult red and black slopes for advanced skiers or boarders, including great off-piste routes through forests. Once a capable skier has conquered the whole of Bernex ski resort, there are plenty of other ski resorts nearby to try out for a day or two. 

Orangina drink break at Les Marmottes at Bernex ski resort

Not only is Bernex great for beginners, but it is also a good place for those that want a relaxed ski experience, particularly outside of the school holidays.

You do not need to wake up extremely early (unlike skiing in Whistler, Canada) and can hit the slopes at your leisure. 

You can ski for a few hours in the morning, and stop for a drink. Then you may want to ski for a few more hours before enjoying a long lunch break with a hot meal and a vin chaud (mulled wine) or a small beer.

If it is sunny, you can sit on a deck chair in the sun. Finish off the day with a quick ski before heading home. 

Where to Eat in Bernex in Winter?

Le Pre Richard restaurant Bernex Ski Resort
Le Pre Richard

It is important to check the opening hours of the restaurants around the village. During the school holidays, the restaurants and bars will be open more frequently. Your best option is to visit the location directly or to call the establishment (in your best French). 

When you reach the plateau of the ski resort, there are two restaurants that you can stop for food and drinks – Le Pré Richard or Les Marmottes. Both restaurants offer local Savoyard cuisine.

Some Savoyard specialities include: Raclette, Fondue, Tartiflette, and Croûte Savoyarde. (Savoyard dishes typically contain a lot of cheese!)

Alternatively, you can stop for food and drinks at Chalet de Combe Bernex – a small chalet turned café at the bottom of the Pelluaz chairlift.  Chalet de Combe has an outdoor seating area, which can be a lovely place to sit on a sunny day.

There are also options for food at the foot of the ski slopes in Bernex serving takeaway food, such as crepes and burgers. 

There are several restaurants in Bernex village if you want to go out for dinner in the evening. Again, you must check the opening hours as they may not be open out of season. 

The restaurant in the centre of Bernex village is L’Ormeau. My favourite dish from L’Ormeau is the Magret de Canard au Vinaigre de Myrtille (duck breast with blueberry vinegar).

Lemon meringue tart at Le Relais de la Chevrette in Bernex

Le Relais de la Chevrette is a homely restaurant in Bernex that sometimes plays live music. The chef was trained at a culinary school in Thonon, and the food is of a great standard.

On my most recent visit to La Chevrette, I ordered a trout dish, which was excellent, and finished it off with a lemon meringue tart, and I frequently think about how delicious the dessert was .

If you are happy to go a little further afield for dinner, you could visit the town of Evian-Les-Bains. There are several Michelin Guide restaurants, which means they are well-esteemed in the area. 

Where to Buy Food in Bernex?

Super U Vinzier supermarket near to Bernex France
Super U Vinzier

There is a large and recently renovated Super U Supermarket in Vinzier, a short 5-minute drive from Bernex. This shop sells everything you would need to cook food at home and also has a pharmacy that sells skincare and some non-medical products.

There is also a small store that sells lovely homeware goods that make great souvenirs; such as bedding, ornaments, and cushions. I want to fit my whole hous with products from this shop.

There is a bakery (La Boulangerie d’Oche) directly in Bernex village, where you can buy fresh baguettes, fruit tarts, and other tasty treats. The bakery opens at 6:30 AM, so go early to get the best pick of the bunch. 

La Boulangerie d’Oche in Bernex is also one of the only places you can buy a takeaway coffee from in the morning.

How Many Days to Spend at Bernex Ski Resort?

Large Bernex ski chalets under snow

The typical amount of time spent in Bernex France is seven days. This length of time is because many vacation rentals rent from Saturday to Saturday during winter. 

I would suggest a whole week in Bernex for skiing for several other reasons. Firstly, the ski rental Bernex shops offer discounts for longer periods of equipment hire. For example , you may get your 7th day free.

Secondly, if the Bernex snow report is looking weak, then it gives you more opportunities for snow to come. Finally, it can be good to take a day off from skiing and enjoy the surrounding area (and give your legs a rest from skiing).

Geneva airport can be extremely busy on Saturdays in school term time, so I would suggest flying in to Geneva a day earlier, and staying in a hotel before moving to your booked skiing accommodation. You could try out one of the nearby towns around Lake Geneva.

Where to Stay in Bernex?

As you now know, Bernex is small and not very commercial. Therefore, most of the accommodation options are rented-out homes. There are chalets and apartments of all sizes in Bernex, suitable for couples or a large group of friends or family. 

There are a few hotels in the area, particularly in Evian, 20 minutes away. I recommend the following hotels:

Winter Activities in Bernex France

Snowshoeing in Bernex France - snowy mountain in background

There are plenty of other winter activities in Bernex other than skiing and snowboarding.

Snowshoeing (known as raquettes in French) is a popular sport to explore the village and ski resort. You can rent snowshoes from the ski rental shops in Bernex.

There are three easy routes and two more challenging circuits – all routes are well-signed. Learn about the different snowshoe trails on the trail map here (same as ski map).

You can also use the snowshoe trails for cross country skiing. 

There is a covered ice-skating rink in Bernex open in the afternoons, from December until March. See the opening times here. It is possible to rent ice skates there too. 

Additionally, there is a luge (sledge) run at the base of the slopes that can be fun for children.

Things to Do Near Bernex Ski Town

Hotel du Port in Yvoire, building covered in vines by Lake Geneva

Bernex is located forty minutes from other Haute Savoie ski resorts, like Morzine, Chatel and Avoriaz, if you feel like exploring a new part of the region. These ski resorts are part of the Portes du Soleil collection

When the Bernex slopes close in March it is possible to ski in Portes du Soleil in April and enjoy the sunny conditions and snow. 

As I mentioned previously, Bernex is close to a town called Évian Les Bains. It is the town where the Evian bottled water comes from, but it is also a quaint town with shops, cafes, and restaurants. 

Evian looks onto Lac Leman, also known as Lake Geneva, and there is a lovely lakeside walk. A visit to Evian makes for a nice day off from skiing.

There are other places to see close to Bernex, such as Yvoire (medieval village), Montreux (Swiss lakefront town), or Chillon Castle, that are enjoyable to walk around.

An activity from December to April is a visit to Aquariaz located on the Avoriaz Ski Resort. It is an aquatic paradise with an indoor and outdoor swimming pool. It is thrilling to sit outside at 0 degrees Celsius in a warm hot tub while people are skiing around you. 

Alternatively, you can go to the thermal spa called Les Bains de Lavey.

Packing List for Bernex Skiing

Read my article on how to layer for skiing to learn about what clothes you need for skiing.

Driving car from England to France

The Loi Montagne (Mountain Law) states that you must have your vehicle fitted with snow tyres or snow chains. As a result, if you are driving your own car to France, make sure your car is properly equipped. 

Check your tyre size before purchasing snow chains online. Plus, ensure you know how to use them because there is a strong chance you need to put them on while driving in France in the snow. 

If you are renting a car from outside the mountainous region (e.g. Paris), make sure you check that your car is fitted with either of the two aforementioned options. Generally, cars rented from Geneva airport are already equipped with a winter package. 

I recommend checking car rental prices for Geneva airport with Rental Cars because it compares a range of brands.

In the past, drivers in France were required to carry a disposable breathalyser in their vehicle, or they would receive a fine. There is no longer a fine for this, but if drivers are caught without a breathalyser in their vehicle, they will be reminded that it is the law. 

Therefore, I suggest purchasing a pack of Breathalyzers for France on Amazon since they are reasonably priced.

If you are looking to purchase new ski wear, some of my favourite brands include:

When booking your accommodation in Bernex, make sure you check whether you need bedding and towels. Some vacation rentals may not provide them. 

Further Reading

For other skiing articles, make sure you read the following articles:

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